T he recipe told me that if I was careful not to tear the bird’s skin when I turned it, the chicken would expand dramatically while roasting. “If kept intact, the chicken will swell like a balloon, which makes for an arresting presentation at the table later,” Marcella Hazan, author of Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, promises on page 328 of her cookbook. I was immediately intrigued. A lemon-flavored chicken whose swollen appearance could elicit confusion and comment before being carved, our otherwise boring-ass entree as art? Stop. You had me at your ‘chicken will swell like a balloon.’ I don’t get excited about how easy a dish is supposed to be. In fact, I am suspicious of any end arrived at too quickly…